( A tutorial, some shopping, your creative energies and the weekend to accomplish it. If you have a tutorial of your own that you would like to share, you may link to it in the comment section of this post. It does not have to be limited to sewing and knitting, just anything creative that you are good at, want to share and that could inspire someone else to learn something new. The sky is the limit.)
The Iris Skirt is a variation of my quick and easy layered skirt for kids. The skirt can be made in any size using two basic measurements and any three fabrics (skirt fabric above is from Anna Maria Horner's Dowry Collection). The bottom layer is made from two rectangles of fabric with side seams and the top layer is made out of eight strips of two coordinating fabrics sewn together to have the same width as the bottom layer, with the length being 2 1/2" shorter. The two skirts are then sewn together at the waist and finished with an elastic waistband.
(A quick note on fabric. There are a few ways to figure out your fabric yardage requirements. First (bottom layer and top layer fabrics), if you are working with a total waist measurement less than 20", you will just decide how long you want the skirt to be ( waist to just below the knee or longer if you like). Take this measurement, add 2" and a few more inches to account for shrinkage and this is how much 42" wide fabric you will need cut for each of the three fabrics. Second (bottom layer fabric only), if you are working with a total waist measurement over 20", you will take your total length plus 2" and a few extra inches for shrinkage and double it. This will be how much 42" wide fabric you will need cut for just the bottom layer fabric. For your top layer fabrics ( for a waist measurement over 20") you will use your total length measurement ( with the added 2" and a few extra shrinkage inches) NOT doubled. This is how much of 42" wide fabric you will need cut for both top layer fabrics.)
I suggest reading completely through the pattern first, so you can think about how easily, or not, your doubled waist size (without seam allowances) will divide evenly into the eight strips for the top layer. Please do not hesitate to ask questions if something is not clear to you.
- fabric for bottom layer(based on above measurement)
- two coordinating fabrics for top layer(based on above measurement)
- matching thread
- 3/4" non-roll elastic
- safety pin
- iron/ironing board
- scissors/pinking shears
- tape measure
Wash, dry and press all fabrics.
1. Take measurements.
Take waist measurement(make sure it an even number), then add 1". Take length measurement, then add 2".
2. Cut bottom layer fabric. With fabric folded (under 20" waist refold along off the bolt fold, over 20" waist fold fabric in half widthwise making sure to flip fabric after it is cut if the print is a one way print, so that one side is not upside down), cut fabric to measurements using the width of the fabric as the waistband. You will have two rectangles of fabric.
3.Sew side seams. With right sides facing, sew the side seams using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim seams, slightly, with pinking shears and press seams open. You will have a large tube of fabric.
4. Hem bottom edge. Wrong side facing press 1/2" around towards the wrong side, then again 1" around. Sew close to edge. Set aside.
5.Cut top fabric strips. Take waist size(without added inch) times it by 2 and divide it by 8, add 1" to each strip. This is how wide your strips will be(for example.. 20" waist times 2 equals 40" divided by 8 is 5" plus 1 inch seam allowance is 6" per strip). Take your length measurement from above(without 2" seam allowance) and subract 1/2". This is your length measurement( it will be 2 1/2" shorter than the bottom layer.) To these measurements, cut 4 strips of each fabric.
6. Sew strips together using 1/2" seam allowance and alternating fabrics until you have a large tube of fabric. Trim seams slightly with pinking shears and press all seams open.
7. Hem bottom edge. With the wrong side facing, press 1/2" around, then another 1" around. Sew close to edge.
8. Right side out both fabrics, then put the top layer inside the bottom layer, lining seams and waistband. Pin in place around waistline and sew around using 1/2" seam allowance.
9. Pull top layer out of bottom layer and press waistline seam open, then flip top layer into place over bottom layer. Press around waistline.
10. Sew elastic casing. Starting an inch in front of a side seam and using a 1" seam allowance, sew around until 2" away from where you started, making sure to backtack at the beginning and end.
11. Cut elastic to waist size minus two inches. Attach safety pin to one end of elastic and pull through the casing. Remove safety pin.
12. Being careful not to twist, overlap ends of elastic an inch and sew together in a square.
13. Sew casing shut.
(check out frontier dreams to see what others are crafting on Tuesday)