Yay! The longies/shorties pattern is finally ready. I am still working on the PDF version for Ravelry so you can all have a copy waiting in your libraries, but that is taking longer than expected (translation: I suck at figuring out anything computer related). I will however have the pattern linked from Ravelry to the blog. I also want to stress that all yardage is approximate due to the varying range of design choices. Make sure you have more than enough before you start..if you have leftovers you can always make a matching hat!
Please read before using this pattern
This pattern is available, free of charge, for personal home use only! Selling products from or distributing this pattern in any way violates my designer rights. Feel free to link to this pattern from your own websites, but leave my photos and content right here unless I, Laura Anderson, give you written consent. Do not claim as your own and give credit where credit is due. Consideration for use of this pattern for profit or charity can be asked by emailing me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
*Updated 1/29/2015- changed ribbing numbers for sizes 2, 3/4, 4/5)
RIB MY HEINY LONGIES
by Laura Anderson
These ribbed longies can be knit up in 7 different sizes, newborn-4, using any worsted or DK yarn that knits to 5 sts per inch. Knit in the round, top-down, these longies have many customizable options. Choose to go long, short or in-between, 100% wool (and lanolized with a cloth diaper) or cotton for those hot summer days, drawstring or an elastic waist for potty training, cuffed with an extra inch to extend their life, made to fit perfect now or just make a few pairs so you're covered for any sort of day. Enjoy!
Sizes: NB (3m, 6m, 1, 2, 3/4, 4/5) *note* size 4/5 is sized without a diaper...less of a rise
Approx. waist (with ease): 14.5" (16", 17.5", 19", 21", 22.5", 24")
Gauge: 20sts=4" in Stockinette Stitch on larger needles
DK or worsted weight yarn to get above gauge (approximately 200-600 yards, amounts will vary depending on design choices)
16" circular needle and double pointed needles to get gauge
16" circular needle or double pointed needles two sizes smaller
5 stitch markers
measuring tape and scissors
large safety pin
1" non-roll elastic (childs waist minus an inch or two for snugness) and thread, if choosing elastic waistband
(read through pattern once to see the layout and to choose your design elements)
With smaller needle, longtail cast on 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120), Place marker (PM) and join for knitting in the round, careful to not twist stitches. The marker is the front middle.
Rows 1-3: *K2, P2*
Row 4: *K2, yo, P2tog*
Work *K2, P2* ribbing until piece measures 1 1/2"
Work *K2, P2* ribbing for 1 1/2"
Next row: Purl all
Work *K2, P2* ribbing for 1 1/2"
Next row: (make elastic casing) K10, fold the waistband in half to the inside, you will now be knitting the front and back stitches together to form a tube that the elastic will feed into. Make sure to line up the stitches to avoid any offset twisting, then insert your needle into the front stitch knitwise, then into the back stitch knitwise making one new knit stitch. Continue to the end of row. (You will have a two inch opening at the beginning. When you are done knitting the longies cut a length of elastic the size of the childs waist minus an inch or two so they will not fall down. Attach a large safety pin to one end and feed through the casing. Sew the ends together with a zigzag, then using the long tail cast on tail, sew up the opening)
Short row back shaping:
Switch to larger needles.
K41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65), turn work (WS facing now), hang scrap yarn over working yarn, P10, turn (RS facing now), hang scrap yarn over working yarn, K15 (you wiil have to stop at the gap to resolve for a RS row by pulling on both ends of the scrap yarn, inserting LH needle and K2tog then finish with the K15), turn (WS facing), hang scrap yarn, P20 (resolving gap for a WS row by slipping the first stitch after gap, pull on scrap yarn and inserting LH needle bottom up, slip stitch back, then P2tog, finish with the P20), turn. You will continue in this manner by adding 5 stitches every turn working until you get to: P40 (P40, P50, P50, P60, P60, P60), knit to end, resolving gap.
Next row: Knit all (resolving last gap by knitting to one stitch before gap, pull scrap yarn, insert RH needle bottom up, slip to LH needle and K2tog)
Knit in stockinette stitch for 1 1/2" (1 1/2", 1 3/4", 2, 2 1/4", 2 1/2", 2), measuring from front, not including the waistband.
Set up back side ribbing:
K29 (33, 33, 37, 41, 45, 49), pm, *P2, K2* 3(3,5,5,5,5,5) times, P2, pm, knit to end.
Work this row until butt ribbing measures 1".
Set up front ribbing:
For Newborn and 3m size: K1, P2, pm, continue with rest of row in pattern until 3sts from end, pm, P2, K1.
All other sizes: K1, P2, K2, P2, work rest of row in pattern until 7 stitches from end, pm, P2, K2, P2, K1.
Work the front and back ribbing set up rows until butt ribbing measures:
1 3/4" (1 3/4", 2", 2", 2", 2 1/4", 2")
You will be increasing 4sts total on an increase row outside of the front and back ribbing markers.
Work 1 increase row: after first marker, K1, K1f/b, 2sts before 2nd marker, K1f/b, K1, after 3rd marker, K1, K1f/b, 2sts before 4th marker, K1f/b, K1, work to end. (4sts increased)
Repeat increase row, measuring on butt ribbing only:
for NB and 3m: at 2 1/2"and 3 1/4"
for 6m: at 2 3/4" and 3 1/2"
for sizes 1,2 and 4: at 3" and 4"
for size 3: at 3 1/4" and 4 1/4"
Continue to work front and back ribbing until butt ribbing measures
3 1/2" (3 1/2", 3 3/4", 4", 4 1/4", 4 1/2", 4 1/4")
Working in pattern and removing ribbing markers as you go:
for NB and 3m: work to 2nd marker and knit the first two and last two purl stitches between the butt markers, work to end. Work two rows in this new pattern, the front 6sts and back 6sts will be in rib only.
for all other sizes:
Row 1: Keeping in pattern, knit the first two and last two purl stitches on butt ribbing
Row 2: Keeping in new pattern, knit the last two purl stitches on front ribbing, knit the next two purl stitches on butt ribbing, knit the last two purl stitches on butt ribbing, knit the first two purl stitches on front ribbing.
Work 3 rows, in pattern with the new knit stitches.
Front 6 and back 6 stitches are left in ribbing only.
Separate for legs and crotch:
Remove beginning of round marker, K1, P2, then slip the next 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts to scrap yarn. Break yarn leaving about a 30" tail. Thread yarn onto a blunt needle and kitchener stitch the 6 front and back 6 ribbed stitches together by holding the needles parallel with the working yarn hanging off the back needle on the right side. Insert the needle knitwise into the first front stitch, slip off, insert into next front stitch purlwise, keep on. Insert the needle into the first back stitch purlwise, slip off, insert the needle into the next stitch knitwise, leave on. Continue until you are at the last front and last back stitch. Insert needle knitwise into the front stitch, slip off, insert into back stitch purlwise, slip off.
Slip the stitches that are still on your circular needle to Double Pointed in the same size. Using the working yarn, pick up two stitches at the crotch between the working yarn and the first stitch, knit across leg stitches, pick up two stitches at the crotch (if you are still experiencing a hole at the crotch twist the stitch before you pick it up and knit it), place marker and work in the round until 1" from your desired length.
*K2, P2* for 1".
Bind off knitwise.
Repeat for other leg, slipping held stitches to Double Pointed needles, joining yarn by picking up 2 stitches at left side of center crotch, knitting across leg stitches and picking up two more stitches at right side of center crotch, pm and work in the round to match first leg.
Approximate inseams of longies: 6 1/4" (7 1/2, 9, 11, 13, 16, 17 1/2) but it is best to measure inseam of child as kids vary greatly. Knit a few inches less for capris.
For shorties knit 1/2" - 1"(or longer for board shorts) in stockinette before switching to 2x2 ribbing.
For bloomers start ribbing at the start of the leg using smaller double pointed needles, omit 4 stitch leg increase.
For extra leg room you can add more hip increase rows between the above ones or add 2 stitches at the center inseam every fews rows (remember to keep total stitches divisible by 4) or for a tapered leg decrease to stitches at center inseam every few rows (keeping total stitch count divisible by 4).
For tighter legs, omit hip increases and/or omit 4 stitch increase at beginning of leg, instead closing holes at crotch by picking up a stitch or two at beginning and knitting it together with the first stitch, doing the same at the end of the round. If hip increases are omitted you will need to put leg stitches to the beginning of butt ribbing on scrap yarn as the numbers above will be too many stitches.
Make a 3 sts I-cord (size of childs waist plus 20") for drawstring or finish elastic waistband.
Weave in ends. Block.
Enjoy the patten on your little ones and any questions will be answered in the comments section of this post.
And don't forget to add your projects to Ravelry so I can see all your wonderful longies/shorties!